Archive for June, 2009

IDI teamed up with De Beers for “Diamond Town Hall Meeting”

The Israel Diamond Institute Group of Companies (IDI) teamed up with the rough-diamond giant De Beers for Israel’s first ever "Diamond Town Hall Meeting" which is an open discussion inviting people from the Israeli’s diamond industry to ask questions and exchange views with the management of De Beers.

Hundreds of other Israeli diamantaires attended the event which was hosted by IDI Chairman Moti Ganz on June 18 along with De Beers Group Managing Director Gareth Penny and Diamond Trading Co. (DTC) Managing Director Varda Shine. "This is an industry that is highly adaptive and adept at finding new ways to succeed. Innovation is part of the DNA of our industry," Shine said in his opening remarks. The meeting was moderated by the industry expert Chaim Even-Zohar.

Penny too took part and in the presentation delivered by him he described the current economic situation as contributing to "extraordinary times, which require extraordinary action." He said the diamond industry has shown resilience over the past 120 years and even after recession the diamond industry has experienced an immediate resurgence. He also pointed out the outlook for the industry and said that there have been early signs of recovery given that there is an increased demand for rough. In the future he sees the upcoming holiday season would be great than the last year, but it might take until 2010 holiday season to reach its former levels.

During the question-and-answer session one issue arose was the DTC rough supplying for non-sight holders, to which Penny confirmed that De Beers is still committed to support the non-sight holders through Diamdel, a part of the De Beers Group.

"This meeting is an additional step in IDI's broad-based efforts to support and promote the Israeli diamond industry during this difficult time. The event testifies to the importance and vitality of Israel as a world-class diamond center. There is no doubt that this meeting offers an important opportunity to raise issues and to receive answers to the questions regarding pertinent issues facing the industry at this time," Ganz said.

Bridal Market finally feeling the effects of Recession

According to the latest reports from the Jewelry Consumer Opinion Council (JCOC), the bridal market which seemed to "recession-proof," is now starting to feel its effects of the current economic downturn.

In a report, "June Bridal Study," it showed that 71 percent of respondents will continue with their wedding or weddings they’re involved in despite the recession. However, only 13 percent of respondents said that their wedding was being postponed by 6 months or more due to the recession and 9 percent said their wedding was being postponed indefinitely.

Besides, almost half of the respondents said that despite the recession, their overall wedding budget would remain the same whereas 28 percent said that it would be lower.

The percentage varied when asked about the ring budgets for the wedding, a clear gender gap emerged in the JCOC’s research results. 36 percent of grooms plan to spend the same amount for the wedding ring despite the recession and 52 percent of brides felt the same thing.

Meanwhile, 36 percent of grooms said their ring budget is lower by fifteen percent or more due to the recession, while only 23 percent of brides thought the budget for the rings would be lowered that much. There were differences in opinion between the brides and grooms about the place where the wedding rings will be purchased.

46 percent of grooms said they will buy their rings from the national jewelry store chain such as Zales or Kay Jewelers and 36 percent said that they will buy from a local independent jewelry store and only 7 percent said that each will buy at an Internet-only retailer, a big-box store such as Wal-Mart or Target, or an established retailer's Web site.

With the brides, 14 percent of which will be involved in the selection and/or buying of the engagement and wedding rings, including how much they will be spending, according to the survey, 29 percent of them preferred independent jewelry store or national jewelry store chain, 23 percent preferred others, 13 percent preferred a big box store, 3 percent of them preferred membership retailers such as Costco or Sam’s Club and/or established retailer’s Website.
The study was conducted by JCOC from June 10-15, 2009. As of June 16, 362 JCOC Panel Members has completed the survey.

Relations redefined by JA with affiliate Jewelers associations

Jewelers of America (JA) have announced that they will be redefining its relationship with state and regional affiliate jewelers associations due to the current economic conditions.

In a media release they mentioned that after careful evaluation during an 18 month strategic review done last year. JA’s board of directors identified that their business model was not sustainable to cover its operating costs. JA has a history of producing and developing major services offered to the members, still it retains less than 20 percent of the annual dues paid by the member companies. The remitted balance of annual dues is then remitted back to the 39 affiliated associations by JA.

JA has come up with a new partnership model where it will no longer offer operational assistance to affiliate associations, such as due collection and database maintenance. Yet it will continue a positive and healthy ongoing relationship through other educational and marketing support, this was informed by the organization in a media release.

The current structure will end by Aug. 17, 2009 and under the current model JA members have joint membership with their local jewelry association and the national organizations. Going forward with the new model the members will elect to join or renew their membership with JA and/or their local association separately.

JA President and Chief Executive Officer Matthew A. Runci in release said, "While the current economic forecast has made it necessary to redefine the relationship Jewelers of America has with its affiliates, the association intends to continue a long-term connection with them through restructured agreements and future partnership opportunities."

This change in the operating structure is done in view with aligning the JA resources to provide positive benefits to its immediate members, the organization said in the release. It will continue its focus on benefits that best address the current concerns of its member companies and to identify direct delivery options at their best suitable convenience – in their stores, local events or online.

The association also has new benefits on the horizon which includes a new and spruce up user-friendly Web site which is all set to launch this fall. With this Web site in place its members can obtain lot of services online, including JA’s exclusive regulatory and legislative guidance materials and online educational offerings from GIA and other education partners.

With an effort to support the independent jewelers JA is strengthening its base in Washington, D.C., through legislative advocacy on key retail issues, like fairness in sales tax and group healthcare access. An important merger with the Jewelry Information Center (JIC) is also planned which brings lots of promises to give its members exciting offers to access the high-quality consumer marketing materials and traffic-building programs. With this partnership the JIC members will receive same access to JA benefits just like any other JA member as they will become JA members.

Top Jewelry Designers featured in Dallas Auction

If you want to meet up with all the “who’s who” in the jewelry industry then Heritage Auction Galleries are offering all the top name brand jewelry in designer jewelry at its May 11 Signature Jewelry Auction.

Few among the other designer favorites that will be showcased in the auction are Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, Jean Schlumberger, Lalaounis, Seaman Schepps and Van Cleef and Arpels. Besides, there are a number of fine examples of all those contemporary designers which will be represented there, including models by Andrea Molinari, Denise Roberge, Elizabeth Gage, Loree Rodkin and Paolo Costagli, among others.

Jill Burgum, Director of Heritage Fine Jewelry said in a media release, "The designer component of our May auction is quite exciting. For people that know their designers, this auction represents a great opportunity to add some serious pieces to their precious-jewelry wardrobe."

Jill also said that there are two lots in particular which stand out and gain all the attention and they are platinum and diamond "Sunflower" bracelet by Harry Winston, and an art deco platinum, diamond, emerald and pearl necklace by Cartier. The Sunflower bracelet carries a pre-sale value of $18,000 to $24,000 and the Cartier piece is estimated to be between $20,000 and $30,000.

The auction is scheduled to be taken place at the auction house’s Dallas headquarters and the bidders are also expected to be participating via the internet.

Interesting people can view the entire catalog on Heritage Auction House's Web site, Jewelry.ha.com.

Extraordinary Diamonds auction itself

Gold is the all time savior and no investment will go for a waste when it is done on gold when investors lose all hopes on currency, financial markets and property. Now-a-days the financial investors are considering diamonds.

It all started with the auction market, where a number of important diamonds both colorless and natural-color varieties has shown a remarkable resilience in the fluctuating economy. This all came into notice when the Sotheby's recent Magnificent Jewels sale happened in Geneva, where a 7.03-carat fancy vivid blue, internally flawless, cushion-shaped diamond fetched $9,488,754 against a pre-sale estimate of $5.8 million-$8.5 million. The sale set a record price per carat of $1,349,752 for any gemstone sold at auction.

Apart from its spectacular weight, color and worth, the blue diamond was cut from a 26.58 carat piece of rough and Petra Diamonds, owner of the historic Cullinan Mine in South Africa discovered it, cut it, polished and consigned it directly to Sotheby’s.

Douglas G. Walker, deputy director and jewelry specialist at Sotheby's New York said, "They cut out the middleman, polished it themselves and put it on consignment. A precedent could be set."

During the spring auction season at Christies the sales were comparatively good. Almost 85 percent of lots were sold at the Jewels sale in New York during late April which included all the top lot such as a pear-shaped, D-color, internally flawless type IIa diamond of 30.02 carats. At their peak, fancy-shaped white diamonds of this caliber went for anywhere from $150,000 to $180,000 per carat. That this stone achieved $130,000 per carat suggests to insiders that the auction market will see a bright year ahead.

Rahul Kadakia who is the head of jewelry at Christie's in New York said, "White diamonds are still quite rare in the large sizes, and people are still confident in investing in these as a portable form of wealth. Because of the fact that it's an alternative investment, because you can put X many dollars into a diamond and then sell it a year, two, three years later and you'll get that value back in the diamond, as opposed to currency or stocks or whatever part of the financial markets you look at. This is a tangible place to put your money and it hasn't changed; it's been like this forever."
At the first major sale of the season, at Sotheby's Hong Kong, a pair of 8-carat marquise-shaped, D-Flawless diamonds sold for just over $100,000 per carat. Initially everybody were skeptical about the prize and were worried that the prices for the prized stones would fall along with the rest of the economy. But to their surprise everything was a great hit.

"Way back when, if you said you sold a diamond for $100,000 a carat, it was, well, okay, let's open the champagne," Kadakia said. "In this market, when things are slow and people don't know how long it will be, $100,000 per carat is still being achieved, so that, in my opinion, is the state of the market in regards to white stones."

He also said, "Today, if you had to go find a 5-carat vivid blue or a 5-carat vivid pink, you couldn't buy it for less than $1 million per carat. The market is a little more selective, it's a little more difficult to find important stones because people are not selling or buying so readily, so trading has slowed down a little bit, but it's still very much there."

Rio Tinto also confirmed that blue diamonds are very much in demand and the “One in a Blue Moon” sale, a collection of rare blue diamonds sourced from several years of production at the Argyle Mine in Western Australia, and comprising 16 lots weighing 287 carats in total, surpassed all the expectations when the bid closed on April 8th.

Jean-Marc Lieberherr, general manager for Rio Tinto Diamonds was delightfully telling that, "It was a bold move, with numerous lots selling in excess of the reserve prices, which is a great lead up to our annual Pink Diamond Tender."

Few other highlights from the auctions conducted were a strong focus on one-of-a-kind jewelry, including a Cartier diamond bangle bracelet that sold at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels sale, also in late April, for $230,500, far above its $70,000 pre-sale estimate.

"The results reinforced the continued demand for signed and decorative jewels, as evidenced by the strong prices achieved for pieces by Tiffany and Co., David Webb and Buccellati," said Lisa Hubbard, chairman of International Jewelry, North and South America.

Largest Steelers’ 2008 championship ring

Steelers' 2008 championship ring

Steelers' 2008 championship ring

Yet another NFL history was made when the Pittsburgh Steelers downed the Arizona Cardinals 27-23 in Super Bowl XLIII last year, snagging a record-setting sixth Super Bowl title. The Steelers’ largest super Bowl bauble till date was the championship right crafted by Minneapolis, Minn. based Jostens.

According to a release from Jostens, the rings contain 63 round brilliant cut diamonds totaling 3.61 carats. The basic idea behind the design which was created by Jostens and the team officials was to reflect the success story of the Steelers’ 2008 season and the history of the organization.

The six round brilliant cut diamonds appear on the top of the ring, each representing the Steelers’ Super Bowl victories. The Steelers logo was crafted using colored gemstones, Jostens spokesman Rich Stoebe said that the Steelers did not release the information on what type were used.

At each tip of ring there are seven diamonds representing the number of American Football Conference (AFC) Championships won and the other 14 stones signify the number of Division titles the Steelers history. The ring also features the official Super Bowl XLIII logo on a field of green enamel and six Lombardi Trophies rising from Heinz Field to signify the support and loyalty of the Steelers' fans.

The ring is shed in 14 carat yellow gold on a black background, a nod to the team’s colors. The opposing side of each ring is personalized with each player’s name and number. The president of Steelers, Art Rooney II and Jostens Chief Executive Officer, Tim Larson said that the easy partnership between the two organizations has resulted in the crafting of this remarkable ring.

"Our Super Bowl XLIII ring is going to be cherished as a symbol of the team's outstanding accomplishments during the 2008 season," Rooney said in the release. "We appreciate the great work Jostens put into making this ring one of the most spectacular in NFL history."

The spokesperson Stoebe said as of now neither Jostens nor the Steelers was releasing the details on the price, cost or appraisal value of the rings. Jostens Website shows that the company has been responsible for designing five of the six championship rings won by the storied Steelers franchise. Super Bowl X is the only championship for which Steelers' players don't sport a Jostens design.

Jostens released that the ring was created in its Denton, Texas facility and was delivered to Pittsburgh for a private player ring ceremony on June 9.
Unfortunately, another pending championship for the city overshadowed the presentation of the rings to the players. According to the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, the ceremony was moved up and some players scooted out early to watch the Pittsburgh Penguins play the Detroit Red Wings in the Stanley Cup Finals that night.

The Penguins eventually ended up winning the Stanley Cup in seven games. there is no information till date that which company will get to design Pittsburgh's second professional championship ring of the year.

Kylie Minogue to star campaign for Spanish brand Tous

Kylie Minogue

Kylie Minogue

Kylie Minogue, an International pop star will be seen in a new advertising campaign for Spanish jewelry brand Tous. The photo shoot was done by a renowned photographer Ellen Von Unwerth who snapped Minogue dressed from head to toe in Tous jewelry and accessories. The session took place in a suite at the luxurious Le Meurice Hotel in Paris, with the theme for the shoot revolving around a surprise party held in Minogue's honor.

"We wanted the campaign to be very bold, very fresh and very atmospheric. To carry off all this radiance and sophistication, we needed the best, and for me, that is Kylie Minogue," Tous Co-President and Design Director Rosa Oriol said in a media release.

The brand also said that Von Unwerth and Minogue together aim at capturing the femininity and the tenderness of the brand’s style and infuse that with fun and poise.

Minogue is a well known name in the pop music industry. An international sensation is what she is began her career as a soap opera actress in her native Australia before recording a series of hits, which the best of all times "Can't Get You Out of My Head."

The ad campaign will soon be released and will appear on the cover of Tous’ new catalogs and the brand’s seasonal book. The book is planned to be distributed to all its retailers worldwide in June. All the fans out there who cannot wait to see the ad on the cover page of Tous can still watch Minogue in behind the scene video from the making of the shoot.

Men’s jewelry offerings in Vegas

At the Couture show in Las Vegas, Damiani's new "Metropolitan Dream" collection was introduced
At the Couture show in Las Vegas, Damiani's new "Metropolitan Dream" collection was introduced

With Father's Day just around the corner, watches and cuff links might be on the minds of some last-minute shoppers, but a crop of designers exhibiting at the Las Vegas jewelry shows is trying to expand the men's category even further with a range of new products intended to keep customers inspired well beyond the weekend.

At the March Baselworld exhibition, Italian jewelry brand Marco Bicego launched its first-ever men's line, "Marco Bicego L'Uomo," a line that made its U.S. debut at the Couture show earlier this month.

According to Moise Cohen, president of Bicego USA, while the brand has built its international reputation on its handcrafted women's designs, designer Marco has always played with making men's pieces for himself and friends, designs that have repeatedly been on the receiving end of enthusiasm.

"He would always wear this necklace he made for himself that everybody just loved at trade shows, and customers would constantly say, 'My husband would love that,'" Cohen says. "So basically he thought this year was a good year [for a launch] because he had such a strong demand from the Europeans, especially from people in London, Italy and Eastern Europe."

The result is a collection of 55 styles, including rings, cuff links, bracelets and chains, all crafted in Bicego's signature, hand-engraved 18-karat yellow, white and rose gold.

"It's a completely different inspiration in terms of design," Cohen says, with pieces featuring geometric motifs inspired by the New York City skyline.

While Bicego's women's line is well known for its organic sensibility, the men's pieces serve as a contrast given their structured, architectural feel.

But fans of the brand need not worry that the line strays too far off course from Bicego's signature aesthetic. The men's designs feature the brand's trademark hand-woven coils and hand-etched gold satin finishes, and the designer's commitment to handmade craftsmanship can be seen throughout.

In addition to Bicego's signature gold, the debut collection will feature styles crafted with black and white diamonds, colored enamel and Italian calf leather, with pieces retailing from $520 to $8,000.

Also in Vegas, a bevy of brands was expanding their men's collections, as was Couture exhibitor Scott Kay, which launched its "The Art of Man" line last year.

According to Chief Marketing Officer Dan Scott, response to the line has been "outstanding," and the brand has even found some retailers surprised to see sales of pieces they originally thought to be more over the top for men's jewelry.

"We had retailers concerned about progressive styles specific to Scott Kay's "UnKaged" collection, and those styles are the best-selling styles in the store," Scott says. "We can't keep the skull product in stock."

One key to the company's success, perhaps, has been in offering a wide range of product and promoting the men's pieces not just as "fashion" pieces but as "lifestyle" ones.

While the 2009 collection includes everything from the aforementioned skulls to more classic hand-woven bracelets and cuff links, the same design characteristics remain throughout, namely details realized through hand-forged craftsmanship.

Compared with some of the brands that have launched men's collections over the last few years, Tateossian, an exhibitor at JCK Las Vegas, is a tried-and-true veteran. The London-based brand built its name on its men's pieces, and for the company, its women's line is more of the newcomer, with pieces often taking design inspiration from the men's line.

The brand is renowned for its cuff links, which this year featured materials such as malachite, tigers eye and carnelian, among a veritable rainbow of gemstones. While one-of-a-kind cuff link sets remain Tatetossian's go-to pieces, entry-level bracelets crafted in braided Italian leather and featuring sterling silver clasps have also been strong sellers over the last year.

Unusual materials tend to figure into many men's designs, with materials such as leather, stingray and stones such as tigers eye or rough diamonds offering up a more rugged aesthetic.

Designer Sevan began using leather for a collection of hand-carved cuff bracelets introduced at Couture. Designed for both men and women, the cuffs feature 24-karat gold, sterling silver and colored diamonds. And Todd Reed was offering up some new rough-diamond pieces in Vegas, with cuff links, chains and wedding bands aimed at men.

Also buffing up its bridal offerings was JCK Las Vegas exhibitor Ritani, which launched a new collection of men's bands that the brand says "combines ruggedness and style with class and sophistication."

Pressure put on Congress to reconsider the Ruby Ban

A number of jewelry industry organizations are urging Congress to consider lifting the U.S. ban on rubies imported from Myanmar, such as those pictured here
A number of jewelry industry organizations are urging Congress to consider lifting the U.S. ban on rubies imported from Myanmar, such as those pictured here

Las Vegas--A united force of the World Jewelry confederation, The American Gem Trade Association and several other jewelry companies is pushing Congress to reconsider the ban of Ruby imports from Myanmar, as reported.

The embargo on the import of Burmese rubies and jadeite to the United States went into effect in September 2008 as part of the Tom Lantos Block Burmese JADE (Junta's Anti-Democratic Efforts) Act of 2008. The act, initiated by the late U.S. Representative Lantos and ultimately signed into law by former President Bush, was designed to cut off funds to Myanmar's military junta--rulers who have received U.S. government condemnation for human rights abuses, including violent crackdowns against peaceful dissenters.

"We're asking Congress to re-address this issue," AGTA President Doug Hucker said during an educational seminar at the JCK Las Vegas show on Friday afternoon. "We feel that this [embargo] is not going to achieve the expected goals."

Signing onto a letter sent to Secretary of State Hillary Clinton are the following organizations: Canadian Jewelers Association, Hong Kong Jewelry Manufacturers' Association, Indian Diamond and Color stone Association, International Colored Gemstone Association, New York Gem Dealers Association and the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association.

In the letter to Clinton, the groups say that they condemn the human rights abuses of the junta, but do not think the JADE Act will achieve the intended economic sanctions on the government. Rather than reduce the coffers of the military government, the crackdown has hurt poor people in Myanmar, many of whom are not only miners but leaders in resisting the junta, Hucker said.

"Artisinal mining communities in Burma are being hurt by these actions," Hucker said.

The groups estimate that tens of thousands of Burmese small-scale artisinal miners in rural areas of the country, where rubies have been a key part of the economy, have been impacted by the sanctions.

Also hurt are jewelry manufacturers in China, Hong Kong, India, Sri Lanka, and Thailand, where the rubies were cut and made into jewelry before the act went into effect.

Meanwhile, most of the jadeite that is sold through state-controlled auctions in Myanmar goes to the Chinese markets, which purchase it for their own consumption.

Hucker said those who are interested in sending a letter of their own, but who need assistance in finding out which local Congress members to write to, can send an e-mail to him at doug@agta.org.

For as long as the ban remains in place, however, Hucker said jewelers should be prepared for questions about Burmese rubies from their customers and be ready to assure them that the gemstones they are selling follow the letter of the law.

"Get a warranty in some shape or form [from suppliers] that these are rubies from somewhere else, such as Tanzania or Madagascar, or a guarantee that they are not subject to the [JADE] Act because they were imported before September 2008," he said.

Partnership forged between Jewelers of America and Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co.

jewelers-americaThe Jewelers of America and Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. have announced a strategic partnership to enhance the services they provide to the retailers in the jewelry industry.

Both the organizations will work closely with each other based upon their long history of mutual support. With this alliance they want to come closer in developing better products and services so that they can meet up with the needs of the retail jewelers. Both the groups will share information on their respective areas of expertise like business management, retail strategies and insurance issues.

Darwin Copeman, president and CEO of Jewelers Mutual said, “While we have long supported the well-known and respected Jewelers of America, this new partnership is a strategic commitment that infuses both organizations with an exhilarating synergy that will benefit the jewelry industry as a whole.”
“Jewelers of America is proud to be partnering with an organization that shares similar commitments - such as protecting, and promoting, the invaluable services of the independent jeweler,” said Matthew A. Runci, Jewelers of America President & CEO. “We look forward to expanding our members’ access and awareness of Jewelers Mutual’s excellent security training and safety education, in addition to working on future projects together.”

Through this partnership the Jewelers of America endorses the exclusive Jewelers Mutual’s commercials and personal jewelry insurance products. Jewelers Mutual will be rendering its support to Jewelers of America through continued sponsorship and funding for its projects, industry events as well as initiatives. JA members will also be benefitting from free access to the security training courses offered by Jewelers Mutual along with free supplies.
The first project of this project will be the Jewelers of America Bench Certification Scholarship program. Through this scholarship program the jewelers will get wider access to the nationally recognized certification credentials, which distinguish bench jewelers and their employers by assessing their bench skills and proficiency at four skill levels.

Darwin Copeman also said that, “In these challenging economic times, partnerships afford the opportunity to stand together, reaping rewards for everyone in the jewelry industry.”